Day Fifteen: "Nothin' Could Be Finah than to be in Carolina in the Morning"

Tomorrow morning I fly home from Oklahoma City with wonderful memories from an intensive three weeks (12 states) on the road -- a wedding with family and great friends, a road trip without reservations, vistas and places covering 3,600+ miles (according to AAA) of country I've only seen in brochures, books, and movies.

Today we had a whirlwind of points of interest around the city. First, we had a quick visit with my new favorite artist/artisan White Antelope. She is holding one of her fancier dress pieces -- unfortunately, the display piece comes across too light in the picture...but the point of the picture is the wonderful spirit of White Antelope. She and her son suffered serious damages in the 1995 Murrah Building blast losing everything -- it has taken them years to rebuild their lives, home, and business.

As you can see by this wall, people are still leaving memorials on peripheral fencing in the former Murrah Building area. The memorial park to the victims features a large granite structure with 9:03 etched above the arch -- the time the bomb exploded. You can see a few of the chairs through the trees that honor each of the victims.

From there we visited the Oklahoma Museum of History -- probably one of the best (200interactive displays) museums I have experienced. Outside is a bronze statue of two young Apaches titled "Unconquered" by Alan Houser.






















Inside the museum is a replica of Wiley Post's famous plane, Winnie Mae. Again, there is a light issue with my camera angle (and all the exterior windows). In the background, you can see the Oklahoma Capitol Building. This museum requires a much longer visit.











The last point of interest today was The Old Red Barn (1898) -- the only round wooden barn in OK -- located on Historic Route 66 in Arcadia, OK -- a short drive from Oklahoma City.
The barn is forty three feet tall and sixty feet in diameter (built of burr oak timbers). The clear spanned exposed timber framing of burr oak on the second floor is an incredible feat -- in fact, authorities say that if the builder had planned this structure on paper, he would have realized it could not be built.

Ernest "Butch" Breger, a local farm owner is the caretaker/attendant. This spry and very energetic 83-year old kept the barn open after hours to allow Jonette and me to browse the downstairs and then escorted us to the upstairs area along with two bikers who pulled up about the same time as we did. These two young men from Denmark (the Jutland area, they told me) are traveling the entire Historic Route 66 -- from Chicago to Los Angeles. One of these young men is an architect. They are researching many points along the route -- and this Red Barn, an architectural feat, is one of them. While we were upstairs, "Butch" wanted to show me how that area served as a dance floor. So, he and I two-stepped around the room with NO music while the two Dane dudes filmed. Can't imagine how this piece of Americana will play back home. :-)

This is the official end of my blogging for this trip. I already have a list of to-dos when I get home...and projects to accomplish in the next few weeks before school commences. What a ride we have had. Thanks, Jonette, for all the laughs along the way -- and for initiating this adventure.

Until the next time, safe travel mercies to all.

Rebecca

Days Thirteen and Fourteen: "...where the wind comes sweeping down the plain..."

SATURDAY
The morning of July 4th found us in Amarillo, TX with plans to drive into Oklahoma City. West Texas was expansive and windy -- so, what's new? Well, perhaps the fields of wind turbines. These turbines were closer to the road than many we have seen along the way -- usually in the distance lining a high mesa -- and filling the fields as deep as we could see. No audible sounds to us in the car. I still do not understand the hoopla in opposition to these structures.

Closer to OKC we stopped at a "trading post" -- after all we were in Oklahoma by this time.There are treasures in these "trading posts" -- many items made by Native Americans. At this "post," a stately Indian stood guard at the entrance. Along with this Indian, outside there were impressive murals depicting the forced march, two painted buffaloes, and a real buffalo in a corral. Lots of local color -- literally and figuratively.










The bison is Oklahoma's state animal. Many communities over the world have "painted" objects to represent their areas -- cows (Chicago and Prague), doors, Palmetto trees (SC). Oklahoma decorated bison.

On the way into OKC, we stopped at Jonette's favorite Native American artisan's shop. White Antelope, the owner, and her son, Mario, make wonderful jewelry and art...as well as presenting the work of other Native Americans. The shop is a lttle art museum. White Antelope is an interesting woman wth spirit and humor. A few years ago Jonette had her make me a fetish-heishi necklace which I cherish.

When we finally settled into Jonette's home, the bottom fell out of the heavens with 60 mph winds, rain, and power outages all around us -- all fireworks canceled in the area. Throughout our road trip we NEVER encountered a rainstorm or severe weather. (We did have a little bit of a hailstorm going over the last mountain pass before Durango.) We have been SO fortunate in our travels! So, when the rains hit Saturday night --and we DID NOT lose power as 16,000+ others did in this vicinity -- we did not feel slighted for missing the up-close-and-personal fireworks. Instead, we settled in for the Capitol's celebration and the Boston Pops' traditional fare in HD. We slept soundly Saturday night finally "off the road."

SUNDAY
Neither of us awakened early today -- it actually was the first morning we both slept in. After a lovely brunch, we headed for the National Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum here in OKC. This sculpture stands at the entrance. This museum houses an incredible collection of art -- paintings, sculpture, exhibits of the early West, a re-creation of a circa 1900 Western cattle town and way of life. James Earle Fraser's magnificent and powerful sculpture "The End of the Trail" create s dramatic first impression (18 feet tall weighing over four tons) in the entrance. Sorry the lighting is poor for the picture -- if I took it from the other side, you could not see the face and other features.
The Native American exhibits depict several tribal worlds through design elements on clothing, tools, and utensils. Set in a lifelike 1950s area, the American Rodeo gallery showcases artifacts and memorabilia of history and champions. Another gallery features Western performers/actors, artwork, and more memorabilia from early Westerns (including the John Wayne Collection). There is much more here than can be seen in one visit!


Everyone recognizes this iconic statue by my favorite sculptor, Glenna Goodacre who also created the Sacajawea model for the one dollar coin; she makes Ronald Reagan almost look alive. Her work is remarkable. (Hopefully, you will have -- or have had -- the opportunity to see many of her originals at the Nedra Mattuchi Gallery in Santa Fe.)

We enjoyed our relaxed day.

Still working on flight plans home....

Day Twelve: Recalculating....

As most of you know, when we embarked on this adventure, we had ONE goal -- to experience the Crazy Horse Memorial in Custer, SD. Actually, we visited the memorial three times -- once for the better part of one day and twice for the night laser light shows (and mountain blast one of those nights). Additionally, we remained in the area long enough to visit Pine Ridge, Wounded Knee, the Badlands, the Black Hills, and Mount Rushmore -- savoring every minute. One day I hope to return for a longer visit -- and to see the progress on Crazy Horse.

Over the past few days we have wandered with some direction (but no reservations) through South Dakota, Montana, Wyoming, Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, and now Texas -- tomorrow we will reach Oklahoma City. In all, we have been in 12 states since we started in Missouri and traveled up through Kansas, Iowa, and Nebraska before reaching South Dakota. Along the way when we came to consensus about our next destination, I would plug in the town/city into my GPS (we have affectionately named "Olive"). If we veered from our intended route, "Olive" would speak out saying "recalculating, recalculating." She did a lot of "recalculating" as we changed our collective minds on a whim. Initially, we had ambitiously included the Grand Canyon, Sedona (AZ), Santa Fe, and Taos as potential stops BUT we "recalculated" in Grand Junction and decided to postpone those locations and head towards Durango and Mesa Verde instead..."recalculating" as we went. In school we must "monitor and adjust" -- recalculating constantly -- and that is a good thing.

This is the scene from our lodgings in Durango...mountains all around.

Today as we drove down from Durango through numerous reservations of the Navajos and the Apaches -- through expansive range lands without seeing a person or animal -- along highways with NO billboards -- under a huge sky, it was difficult to not feel pride in this country's beauty...which comes in many forms. From a mountain pass with snow-topped caps to red-rocked mesas to rolling hills to desert-like plains, I never cease to be amazed and awed. We have managed to be on few Interstates preferring the scenic byways.

For whatever reasons, we do not hear about the many areas involved in various types of energy production in this country...but my favorite has to be the lines of stately white wind turbines that suddenly appear on a horizon or on top of a mesa. I don't know why we don't have these in the SC yet. These turbines are HUGE but almost balletic in their movements. Very graceful. Elegant. This afternoon as we entered Texas, there was yet another field lined with these turbines and a rainbow falling right in the middle of them. Almost surreal. Couldn't find a pull-over soon enough to catch that on film.

Thanks to all of you who followed our travels. Sorry for the blog snafus along the way. I have never been able to figure out how to make the picture on the top right-hand side of the page stay with the appropriate day. Instead, it becomes permanent attaching to previous days. Oh, well...I'm still learning (and remember that this is my first attempt at blogging). And we never found that convertible to stage our "Thelma and Louise" photo shoot. Perhaps another trip. :-) Additionally, I have been gone from home almost three weeks -- I have so many things to do before school begins in a month. Where does the time go?

Reflections/Observations along the way:
1. I now have a greater understanding for the lyrics of "Home, Home on the Range." One part of the lyrics is "...and the skies are not cloudy all day." We drove through ranges after ranges seeing buffalo (not sure they were playing) and skies with NO CLOUDS. Think the part about "...where seldom is heard a discouraging word..." relates to the fact that there are FEW humans around from whom to hear such.
2. If driving the Beartooth Highway again, it would only be from Red Lodge, MT to Cooke City -- not the opposite direction.
3. If lodging in Yellowstone Park is a goal, phone ahead.
4. While driving through Yellowstone and you suddenly see a cluster of cars pulled off the road, you can be sure it relates to a wildlife event. Bring your camera AND your tripod for such photo opportunities. It is amazing how quickly folks could whip out those tripods!
5. Don't expect to see many cars or trucks along I-90...or gas stations or places to eat or anything except ranges.
6. We often wondered where everyone was as we traveled the scenic back roads and byways. I know. They were all at Yellowstone waiting for another Old Faithful show. You would not have believed how many cars and people appeared at this one site -- more of a concentration than we saw on the entire trip.
7. Jackson (the city) and Jackson Hole (the area) are definitely on my list to do again...for a longer time. Also, little towns in Montana and Wyoming, the hot springs in a number of places, and fly fishing in some of the many streams we passed.
8. The drive between the south entrance to Yellowstone and Jackson Hole is not to be missed. The snow-capped Tetons rise high and majestic.
9. Leaving the main roads can give pause for thought. We were fortunate that we had no mishaps traveling south through Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, Utah, and New Mexico.
10. There are still some very nice people out there. The two mechanics in Vernal, Utah who worked diligently to repair an over-heating problem on a 10-year old car (in a place that they said was a "truck town") were kind, helpful, gracious, and HONEST. They could have left us waiting for a part to arrive MAYBE in three days; instead, they jerry-rigged the problem to be handled at a later date. We never had another problem.
11. The scenic highways have few to NO billboards. How refreshing.
12. You can get great meals in some small towns...surprisingly good fare.
13. There are cars that get 30+ mpg -- I haven't had one in years -- and it is nice to not have to fill up so often.
14. I had forgotten the ferocity of the winds in west Texas. Years ago we traveled through this area and noticed the tumbleweed not tumbling but flying across the roads. Signs in front of businesses were on springs because the winds were so strong...otherwise, the signs would be bent or blown over. Today when we stopped for gas in west Texas, we almost had to hold onto the car to pump gas. Got my attention!
15. Our history books do an unacceptable job of portraying the plight of the Native Americans and the holocaust they have endured. There is much we could learn from their ways. There is much which this country owes them today.
16. Life is TOO short. There is so much to see and do. Don't wait.
17. This land is magnificent and grand -- and the sweeping vistas define descriptions. As I have previously stated, I'm all out of superlative adjectives. :-)
18. I loved our up-close-and-personal moments with the buffalo on the roadsides -- and all the other wildlife we encountered.
19. I marvel at the people who built the highways up and through some treacherous heights. And, I cannot fathom driving these roads on a regular basis.
20. While all Best Westerns are not created equal, they have exceptional complimentary breakfasts.
21. The back side of George Washington's head coming through the trees looks surreal when viewed from the road approaching the monument.
22. I had forgotten the 50+ shades of adobe used on structures around the Santa Fe area...even on the overpasses on the highway.
23. I-40 has entirely TOO many trucks on it.
24. The little town of Tucumcari on historic Route 66 is almost a ghost town. Someone needs to turn off the lights and forward the mail. Wonder how many other small towns along the route have succumbed in similar fashions?
25. Route 66 parallels I-40 for a long way. It looks so small and narrow but has transported millions over the years. What a storied past.
26. Fry bread should be eaten warm, not warmed up.
27. AAA has great TripTiks -- be sure they give you the old style -- better info and maps. Additionally, many motels offer 10-20% discounts on room rates with AAA membership.
28. A GPS is a good thing. It kept us straight and re-enforced turns and directions. Also, somehow or other, this little device can tell how fast you are going, what the speed limit is, where the nearest gas station is located, ATMs, lodging, etc. It is a handy-dandy gadget. We would never have found Bette's Kitchen on the Pine Ridge Reservation without it! There were NO signs advertising this place. The sign for Black Elk Road is almost obscured by bushes. If it weren't for the small picture on the flier AND the GPS, we would never have found it. Bette's niece said she misses the turnoff on occasion.
29. Before leaving on a trip, ask friends what they know or recommend about your destination. My neighbors provided a wealth of info for this trip and great suggestions -- and even maps.
30. We are fortunate and thankful to have had safe travelling mercies.

After a brief visit in OKC, I'll be flying home with many wonderful memories. I haven't been in Oklahoma since we left in the late 50s. We lived in Muskogee while Daddy was responsible for building a high energy fuel plant for rockets that would go into space. Think about Rocket Boys and October Sky and the race for space. It was a hush-hush project and we were the only Navy family in town. Never having been to Oklahoma City, I'm looking forward to seeing it.

Some day I hope you find a traveling companion and hit the roads without reservations. Never a dull moment...an adventure (and perhaps a surprise) around many curves in the road.

Safe travels to all!

Day Eleven: Mesa Verde -- Clarifying History and Preserving the Works of Man

The reason for today's trip was prompted by a comment by my next-door neighbor, Jessie, who gave me many great ideas of places and things to see on our unplanned trek. Thanks, Jessie, for this one!

We spent ALL of today in Mesa Verde National Park (in southwestern Colorado near Cortez). This park consists of nearly 5,000 archeological sites including 600 cliff dwellings. Scores of large canyons seam the mesa -- and in the alcoves eroded in the cliffs are some of the world's largest and best preserved cliff dwellings. (Do you feel as though you are in history class? I was six hours short of a double major in English and history in college. I LOVE learning the stories behind events.) This park established in 1906 by President Theodore Roosevelt was the first national park of its kind. The park administers the preservation of archeological sites and other works and relics of the Ancestral Puebloan people. In 1978, Mesa Verde received international recognition as both a World Heritage Site and Biosphere Reserve. The Rangers told us that often there are more Europeans at the park than English-speaking people.

With over 53,000 acres, Mesa Verde preserves and protects over 4,500 archeological sites,including 600 cliff dwellings -- and over 3 million associated objects in the research collection. These sites are some of the most notable and best preserved in the United States.

The drive to the park from Durango (our current base) wound between and around high foothills to the peaks in the background.After driving all the switchbacks over three mountains recently, this was relaxing. Coming around a curve, Mesa Verde was unmistakable. Now this is a major mesa. In fact, there are two primary mesas associated with this National Park.

From the park's entrance (where we once again were able to "flash" our Senior Lifetime Pass to all National Parks -- that's ALL we're flashing these days!), we climbed 15 miles to the Visitor's Center. As I've stated previously, there are just no more superlatives to describe the vistas we see around every turn. YOU must come and see them one day!

Fortuitously, we were able to join a half-day bus trip with a park ranger. (This was a helpful thing since my friend is unable to walk any distance.) This was also a good decision because the ranger was informative, entertaining, and allowed us to see more than we would have on our own. (My neighbor had suggested that this was the best way to see the park initially.)

But first, we had lunch -- Navajo tacos. Ever heard of these? My friend has been talking about Indian tacos since we started our travels -- evidently, this is a "hot" seller in OKC. When we were in the Black Hills (SD), there were a few places offering Indian tacos. In all my culinary experiences in places around the globe, this was a new treat. Here are the differences in Indian tacos and the tacos we primarily know. First, fry bread instead of tortillas forms the basis of this dish. The fry bread is flat and the size of a plate! (If you don't know fry bread, watch one of my favorite Sherman Alexie movies called Smoke Signals -- they refer to this delicacy frequently.) Then a variety of toppings are artistically placed on the fry bread...chili or chicken, beans, shredded lettuce, cheese, onions, and the best jalapeno spread that looks for all the world like guacamole. There is no way one person could -- or should -- eat this entire creation. I meant to take a picture of my dish but remembered this task halfway through (when I stopped eating) so I went back to the kitchen and they let me photograph one they had just fixed. Unfortunately, the light was not good or the camera or the person tilting the plate moved so the picture is somewhat blurred...but you can get the idea. It was double yummo.

Okay, here is your history info for the day. The earliest known inhabitants of Mesa Verde were the Modified Basket Makers, descendants of a people who lived in the Four corners region. They built subterranean pit houses about A.D. 500 - 750. From A.D. 750-1100, these cliff dwellers perfected their living quarters, building kivas (ceremonial or domestic rooms -- depending with whom you speak) and masonry houses around open courts (pueblos). From A.D. 1100 - 1300, arts and crafts reached their peak; pottery and cloth were often elaborately decorated. Around 1200, these people moved into the alcoves for reasons that remain unknown and built cliff dwellings. Sometime about 1276 a drought struck and lasted 24 years. The resulting crop failures, depletion of resources, other environmental problems, and possible conflicts may have driven the people from Mesa Verde in search of a more reliable water supply and improved living conditions.

Some of the Pueblo people living in the Rio Grande pueblos in northwestern New Mexico and on the Hopi mesas in Northern Arizona are descendants of the former occupants of Mesa Verde. After ALL the painstaking work, the people who built these cliff dwellings only lived in them for 100 years. That would entail two to three generations since women averaged a life span of 24 years and men often made it to 40 years. These people were little with men standing 5'4" and the women only 5' in height.

From our history books, I always had the impression that these cliff dwellers lived in these dwellings for thousands of years. Not true. Only the last 100 years (they lived in his area!) as previously stated. Their pit houses gave rise in later years to a series of better housing. We were fortunate to visit several of these sights up close and personal.

Looking across the canyon with Ranger Tim as our guide, you can see the Cliff Palace, one of the most photographed of the cliff dwelling. (When we got on the bus, we didn't realize that we would also get to go into the Cliff Palace.) Reaching the actual site of the Cliff Palace involves descending uneven stone steps and climbing five ladders for a 100 ft (30M) vertical climb. I know that these don't even appear real but this is the actual Cliff Palace exterior. According to Ranger Tim, there were 21 families living here "condo" style -- each family built their home in their own style...and you can see this up close. Additionally, this complex consisting of over 150 rooms extends 90 feet into this rock area. It was difficult to get my head around the kind of hardships these folks faced. They were farmers primarily after their basket period planting corn, beans, and squash together -- the Indians call these vegetables the "three sisters." Did you know that they planted the corn the beans, and the squash in the same hole? The corn provided a stalk for the beans and the squash provided shade to hold in the moisture around the plants. Very clever.

We also got to see Spruce Tree House, the best preserved of the cliff dwellings.

We left this area enriched and educated.

Ah, so it was getting towards supper time by the time we left the park. Yesterday while we were cruisin' the Main Street of Durango, we passed Jean-Pierre's French (of course!) Bakery and Restaurant. Decided that would be our final stop for the day. We were not disappointed. Again, it was a lovely restaurant wth an eclectic but elegant feel. The food matched the ambiance.I had French Onion Soup and Escargot (not exactly a balanced diet but very tasty -- and not as delectable as my favorite little French bistro Le Bonne Soupe in NYC) and my friend had trout flown in from Pike's Market in Seattle. (Wonder why they didn't have locals supplying the fish?) Great service and food. Highly recommend when you are in town. :-)

I'm hoping that we will be heading towards OKC tomorrow. This has been a fun trip but all good things must come to an end. Probably will do ONE or TWO more blog entries...just depends. Thanks for hangin' in there with us on our Crazy Horse and more adventures.

Day Ten: Rocky Mountain Highs -- and "Hi" to all from Durango, CO

First, I'm sorry I did not get pictures of the incredible mesas in Mesa County where Grand Junction is located. When we rolled into town last night, the shadows were long and the traffic on I-80 truckin' fast. (You'll just have to experience them yourselves first hand one day! Spectacular and mystical.) This morning we set the car on a southward course away from the majestic mesas -- and for a couple of hours we watched as the looming snow-capped Rockies became closer. After Montrose, we began to climb. The scenic town of Ouray (pronounced "you-ray") tempted us to stop for a few days. Son James had told me about the hot springs there -- and we passed it full of people enjoying the "waters." A quaint and fun little hamlet.

Before the first sliver strike in 1875, the Ute Indians came to the area to enjoy the hot springs. Ouray is the halfway point along the San Juan Skyway, Colorado's first scenic byway. Since the San Juan Mountains are geologically younger than other Colorado ranges, the San Juans present a more jagged, precipitous appearance. The town also marks the northern terminus of the byway known as the Million Dollar Highway, which is cut from nearly vertical cliffs ...with STEEP drop-offs and NO guardrails. Proceed with caution!.

From there we began climbing quickly up the first of three 11,000 foot mountains.

Around EVERY sharp switchback was yet another breathtaking view. After awhile it was hard to decide just what we "needed" to memorialize -- too many opportunities -- never a bad view.
I loved the Aspen trees we found high on the mountains -- and with rain threatening and the wind blowing, the leaves danced (helping distract me from the next hairpin switchback -- I wasn't driving).
Wonder if the folks who drive these mountains ever tire of these views?
















The last climb was over the Red Mountains -- appropriately named as you can see from the picture. I was a happy camper to see the bottom of this last mountain and the valley of Durango!

Durango began as a railroad town with Victorian vestiges of the past accenting the downtown area. What a fun town -- this is another place to which I'd love to return. And it's a happening place.

Coming down the mountain with all the switchbacks were legions of mountain bikers. We even saw a dozen or so going over the mountains...move over Lance Armstrong. There are all kinds of typical mountain recreational activities, great shopping, cultural events, whitewater rafting, and nice folks. Durango with a population of 17,000 has farmers, ranchers, herbalists, artisans, entertainers, a college, and great cuisine.

Tonight after a recommendation from several locals, we opted for a "nice" supper since many of our recent meals have been "on the fly." If YOU are ever in Durango, the Mahogany Grille on Main Street is my recommendation -- and it will be a treat. Besides waiters who are well trained and a complimentary "Mahogany Cheer" libation, the ambiance adds to the experience. See the beautiful lighting on the ceiling?









We really enjoyed the pianist who played throughout our meal. I had the BEST appetizer that would have suited me as dessert: Caramelized Mission Figs with Chardonnay Honey Reduction served with Panko Encrusted Brie and Pear/Apple Slices/Toasted Almond Slivers and Toast Slices. Oh, yum. The main course was Chilean Sea Bass. (Just to set the record straight, there is no such thing as Chilean Sea Bass; that is just the name used in restaurants -- the official name is Patagonian Toothfish...but who would order that?). Double yum. Great decor.

We walked down the street after this sumptuous repast, window shopped -- I love this Storyteller Doll in the window, checked on the Durango-Silverton schedules, and settled back in the room. The pubs and entertainment places were gearing up -- lively sounds wafting into the streets. This town is set for the Fourth of July festivities.
Not sure just where we will be on that date.

And, I have officially run out of superlative adjectives to describe the landscape. My lexicon is depleted. :-)